Where to Stay in El Cocuy: Hostal El Caminante
If you’re trying to figure out where to stay in El Cocuy, the first decision is simpler than it seems: you’re choosing between two towns, Güicán or El Cocuy itself, and then between staying in the pueblo or just outside it.
Here’s how I made that call, and why one hostal in particular made both of my trips feel easy.
Güicán or El Cocuy?
Both towns work as a base for the park, and either one gets you close to the trails. The bigger decision is really about what’s inside the town versus what’s outside it.
Some places just outside the pueblo have nicer views, but they come with a tradeoff: transportation. Every trip into town, whether it’s dinner, a pharmacy run for snacks, or grabbing bus tickets for the ride back to Bogotá, means arranging a ride and usually paying for it. It adds up quick.
Staying in the pueblo solves that. You can walk to dinner, walk to the bus stop, and handle last-minute errands without depending on anyone else’s schedule. For a trip built around hiking, where your energy is better spent resting than coordinating rides, that convenience matters more than a better view.
If you want both the hike and the downtime, a solid compromise is staying in the pueblo first, then adding extra days somewhere with a view and a jacuzzi. Your legs will thank you.
My Recommendation: Hostal El Caminante
We stayed at Hostal El Caminante on both of our trips, and it’s the one place I’d recommend for anyone asking, ever.
It’s run by Doña Marta, and she makes the whole trip easier before you’ve even started hiking:
- Rooms are well kept. You come back to a made bed and don’t have to think twice about security. I trust her and her staff.
- There’s a sala with a fireplace that they’ll turn on for you, plus plenty of blankets to get under at bed time. It can get chilly in the evenings, so this ends up being more useful than it sounds.
- Laundry is available for a fee, which matters more than you’d expect after a few sweaty trail days and you’re trying to pack light.
- Hot water water is hit or miss but mostly hit and isn’t a given everywhere in the pueblo.
- Breakfast is comida típica: think changua, huevos pericos, coca tea, and chocolate con queso.
- Packed lunches for hike days are generous. Expect something like a chicken veggie sandwich or ham and cheese with avocado, and usually more than you’ll actually eat.
- Room sizes vary, from a full plus bunk bed up to a larger room with a full, a twin, and a twin bunk bed, so it works whether you’re traveling as a couple or a family.
- Location is central. It’s one block from the main plaza and an easy walk to either bus stop, Libertadores or Gacela, depending on your travel dates.
Marta Isn't Just Your Host, She's Your Guide
Here’s the detail that sets this hostal apart: Marta doesn’t just run the lodging, she also guides the trek herself, alongside a team of guides who work with her.
That matters more than it might sound like at first. Instead of coordinating between a separate hostel, guide, transportation everything runs seamlessly through one trusted person who grew up in Cocuy, knows the trail, the weather, and how to pace a group. She’s also well connected locally, and can help arrange transportation to other nearby spots for a fee if you want to explore beyond the park.
Marta was featured in Andes Mágicos, a Netflix series, in its second season. She and her husband were both born and raised in El Cocuy, and the respect shows: other guides greet her by name as they pass, a small but telling sign of how well she’s known and trusted in town.
What to Know Before You Book
- Costs vary for lodging and guiding depending on nationality and group size, so confirm current rates directly before your trip.
- Book ahead during high season, especially around January (peak of high season), since rooms fill up fast in a town this small.
- Ask Marta about transportation if you’re planning to visit nearby towns. She has local connections and can often arrange something for a fee.
A note on flexibility: Small pueblos run a little differently than what a lot of travelers are used to at home, and that's part of the charm. During one of our stays, the power went out for about ten minutes before coming back on its own. Around Christmas, things can get loud at night, but that's true across most of Colombia this time of year, not just in Cocuy. None of it is a big deal. It just helps to go in expecting a few things outside anyone's control. How you speak to the people helping you matters, so if something comes up, raising it kindly goes a long way.
Choosing where to stay in El Cocuy shapes more than your nights in town. With the right host, it can shape the whole trip. Her contact can be found on their Instagram. Next up: what to actually pack for the trek itself.
More El Cocuy Guides
- El Cocuy Packing List: What to Bring for the Trek: Everything that made it into our bags for two big hikes and one acclimatization day.
- How to Get to El Cocuy, Colombia: The Full Route Guide: The route from Bogotá, bus options, driving tips, and where to stop along the way.
- The History of El Cocuy: Pueblo, U’Wa Culture, and the Páramo: The story behind the name, the U’Wa’s connection to the mountain, and what makes the páramo so rare.
- The El Cocuy Trek: Laguna Grande de la Sierra and Púlpito del Diablo: What the actual hikes are like, what they cost, and what to know if you’re bringing kids.
MEET SARAH
Welcome! I’m Sarah. I started this blog to be a resource for others around a few of my favorite things: living in Colombia, DIY projects, places traveled, and day-to-day life. My hope is that it can a place of inspiration and encouragement to help you plan the next project or adventure of your own!
